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Step 1 :
After the usual straight forward outline drawing I've put on a fairly
straight forward sky wash, by starting off by pre wetting my sky area
with water, and then firstly dropping in with a little bit of yellow
ochre mixed with the tiniest touch of burnt sienna and then cobalt blue
from the top all the way down to my distant hills. Then using the same
brush, which is a 1.5” wash brush, simply suck out a few clouds. |
Step 2 :
Once my sky
area has dried, straight in with the distant hills, and for these I have
used mixtures. For the far distance, cobalt blue mixed with the tiniest
touch of alizarin crimson, and whilst it was still wet, a few hints of
yellow ochre, this is all for the furthest away hills. As I come
slightly further forward I am using the same mixtures but then dropping
in a little hint of hookers green. All of this was done with my ¾” flat
wash brush.
Notice at this point that I have left out the little buildings that I
have drawn in the distance, leave them white for the time being. |
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Step 3 :
All I have
done on top of all this for the next image is using my No. 8 round
brush, with the tip of the brush, simply drop in a few blobs, lumps and
bumps and a few squiggly lines using hookers green with a tiny touch of
burnt sienna mixed in. At this stage I have also done my distant houses
and buildings, firstly using light red for the roves, very well watered
down because light red it a strong colour. And then a touch of cobalt
blue mixed with alizarin crimson for one side of each building, leaving
the front bits white.
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Step 4 :
As I come
further forward into the middle distance, the fields are all a little
bit darker and of course a little bit bigger. So I have gone on with my
¾” wash brush with a very wet yellow ochre followed by hookers green and
burnt sienna mixed whilst the first colour was still wet. Then again
drop in with a mix of hookers green and burnt sienna, add a few lumps
and bumps to signify bushes and hedge lines.
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Step 5 :
Coming further forward on the left portion I have again gone in with a
wash of yellow ochre all over this area, then hookers green and burnt
sienna on top of it, leaving a few bits and pieces of yellow ochre
showing through here and there. But notice I have left that little path
squiggling away into the distance showing as just yellow ochre.
Now to the big lump over to the right hand side, there are a lot of
colours gone in here, as you will imagine yellow ochre first, followed
by hookers green and burnt sienna. Whilst all this is still wet, a few
touches here and there of burnt sienna, I just stipple this on, followed
by a little bit of stippling with stronger yellow ochre then also a
little bit of cobalt blue.
Now let all this dry. In the meantime I went back over to the left hand
side that I had previously painted and put a little bit of shadow to the
left hand side of that lumpy bit of ground that I previously painted.
The shadow mix being, cobalt blue, burnt sienna and alizarin crimson.
All of this section that I have just mentioned was done with my ¾” wash
brush.
The little bit of grass under the tree was painted with hookers green
and yellow ochre, for a lighter brighter green.
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Step 6 :
For Hadrian's Wall itself I have blocked the whole thing in using the
Charles Evans Sand colour. I have let you see it before and after, the
bit in the foreground is still just the sand. As it curls off further
away you will see that I have added with my No 8 round brush a few
stokes here and there of yellow ochre followed by raw umber, followed by
light red, just to signify a few stones in the wall. Remember, when
doing something like this, your painting it, not building it, so don’t
paint a million stones in it, give the impression rather than the
detail. Then I have stroked over with a little bit of my shadow mix
again, which again is cobalt blue, burnt sienna and alizarin crimson. |
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Step 7 :
As you will
see now I have finished off the rest of the wall in the same way but
slightly bigger.
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Step 8 :
You will see
here I have got the tree just blocked in. For the tree trunk using my No
8 round, yellow ochre to the right, raw umber to the left, and then
cobalt blue and burnt sienna mixed (very dark) to the extreme left, this
is all done whilst still wet so that the colours run into each other.
For the top part of the tree, the foliage, using my No 8 round I have
just blocked it in with hookers green and burnt sienna. Now it looks
quite flat but......
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Step 9 :
in the next
image, once it has dried, using my ¾” wash brush I have stippled on
mainly to the left hand side, cobalt blue, then to the right hand side,
yellow ochre fairly strong. Now this gives the whole thing more life.
Finally add a little bit of shadow underneath the tree.
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Step 10 :
For the big
bit in the foreground I have washed the whole area with yellow ochre
then whilst it was still slightly damp, re wash on top using hookers
green and burnt sienna but again leaving bits of yellow ochre showing
through here the there. Also leaving the path area just yellow ochre.
Once this had dried I stippled on still with my ¾” wash brush with a
little bit of burnt sienna here and there, yellow ochre stronger here
and there, then a few hints of blue stippled here and there.
Once the path had dried I used my No 8 round brush to give the
impression of a few stones using raw umber and a few touches of light
red. Then I put a few hints of my shadow colour to the right hand side
of the path and there we have it, another glorious scene from the
beautiful Northumberland. |
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